Rabbit nutrition guide: hay, pellets, vegetables, and common mistakes

Rabbits are the most poorly fed pet in Western households - not because their owners do not love them, but because almost everything sold in pet stores under the label "rabbit food" is either inadequate or actively harmful. Coloured seed mixes. Sugar-coated treat sticks. Pellets loaded with corn and wheat. All of it comes in bags with a happy rabbit on the front. All of it damages the rabbits that eat it.

This guide corrects that from the ground up. It covers rabbit digestive biology, what hay actually does inside the gut, why cereals and seeds are a problem, how to choose good pellets, which vegetables to give, and which mistakes prevent GI stasis - the number one killer of domestic rabbits.

You can also see our best rabbit pellets ranking and the full rankings page. Our complete scoring system is on the methodology page.

The French version of this guide is available at /fr/blog/fr-alimentation-lapin-guide/.

The rabbit is a strict herbivore: understand the biology first

An herbivore, not a disguised omnivore

Dogs are opportunistic carnivores with omnivore adaptations. Cats are obligate carnivores. Ferrets are even more extreme obligate carnivores. Rabbits are at the opposite end of the spectrum: strict herbivores, whose entire digestive system is optimised for fermenting and extracting nutrients from plant fibre.

This changes everything. Where cats need 35-40 pourcent animal protein in their diet, rabbits need no meat at all. Where cats struggle with complex carbohydrates, rabbits need them - but slow carbohydrates from plant fibre, not simple sugars from fruit or cereals.

The fundamental difference from cats and dogs: rabbits have a fermentation cecum (the caecum) that represents 40 pourcent of their total digestive volume. This is where plant fibres are fermented by specialised bacteria to produce volatile fatty acids, essential amino acids, and B vitamins. Without a continuous supply of fibre, this system collapses.

Caecotrophy: why rabbits eat their own droppings

Rabbits produce two types of droppings: hard pellets (the small round balls you see in the litter tray) and caecotropes. Caecotropes are soft, grape-cluster droppings produced at night and re-ingested directly from the anus. They contain a high concentration of proteins (28-29 pourcent dry matter), vitamins B12 and B1, and live microorganisms.

Caecotrophy is not a sign of illness - it is an essential nutritional behaviour. A healthy rabbit re-ingests all of its caecotropes. If you find caecotropes in the enclosure (not the normal hard droppings), this is a sign the rabbit is overweight (cannot reach its anus) or the diet is too rich in protein and calories (the rabbit no longer needs to re-ingest them).

GI stasis: the number one killer

Gastrointestinal stasis (GI stasis) is the arrest or severe slowing of intestinal transit. It is the leading cause of death in domestic rabbits - and it is almost always caused by insufficient dietary fibre. Without fibre, fermentation bacteria in the caecum produce gas, the intestine becomes paralysed, and the rabbit can die within 24-48 hours.

Symptoms: rabbit stops eating, stops producing droppings (or very few), hunched posture, tense abdomen. This is a veterinary emergency - and it is preventable through diet.

Hay: 80 pourcent of the diet, without exception

Why 80 pourcent and not less

Hay is the foundation of a rabbit's diet. Not a supplement. Not an "enrichment". The foundation. For a healthy adult rabbit, hay must represent at least 80 pourcent of daily food intake by volume - and it must be available in unlimited, free-choice quantities, 24 hours a day.

Here is what hay does:

Long fibres for the gut. The long fibres in hay (insoluble fibre, lignin) stimulate peristaltic contractions of the intestine. Without these contractions, transit slows and stasis begins. Pellets and vegetables do not contain enough long fibre to maintain this mechanism on their own.

Tooth wear. Rabbit teeth grow continuously (2-3 mm per week according to studies from the Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians - AEMV). Chewing hay - a lateral circular motion, different from chewing pellets - is the only effective wear mechanism for all surfaces of the teeth. A rabbit that eats little hay develops dental spurs (enamel points) that can ulcerate the tongue and cause the animal to stop eating.

Satiety without excess calories. Hay is low in calories but high in volume. A rabbit with free access to hay is satisfied without gaining weight. A rabbit fed primarily on pellets (dense, calorie-rich) finishes in 5 minutes and spends the rest of the day chewing anything in reach.

Which type of hay to choose

Timothy hay: the reference standard for adult rabbits. Long fibres, low in calcium (important because excess calcium causes urinary stones in rabbits), widely available in Europe and North America. Reference brands: Oxbow Western Timothy, Small Pet Select, Kaytee Timothy.

Orchard grass: an alternative if your rabbit does not take to timothy. Similar nutritional profile, long fibres, slightly more palatable for some rabbits.

Alfalfa hay: high in protein and calcium - appropriate for rabbits under 6 months (growing) and pregnant or nursing does. RESTRICTED for adults in large quantities: excess calcium and protein causes kidney and urinary stones.

Meadow hay or botanical hay: supplemented with dried flowers (cornflowers, marigolds, rose petals). Identical nutritional value to timothy, superior palatability for fussy rabbits. Can be used alongside timothy to encourage consumption.

What to avoid: damp or mouldy hay (mycotoxin risk), freshly cut green hay (causes diarrhoea through rapid fermentation), hay with a bad smell or brown colour (loss of nutritional value).

Pellets: 10 pourcent of the diet, and only the right ones

The role of pellets in the diet

Pellets should not be the dietary base - they are a supplement that ensures vitamins, minerals, and proteins that hay alone does not fully cover. Recommended quantity: 20-25 g per kilogram of body weight per day for an adult rabbit. For a 3 kg rabbit, that is 60-75 g per day - a small handful.

Pellets must not be available free-choice. A rabbit with unlimited pellet access will prioritise pellets and reduce hay consumption - the exact opposite of what we want.

What a good rabbit pellet contains

Crude fibre: minimum 18-20 pourcent. This is the most important criterion. A pellet with less than 15 pourcent crude fibre does not adequately support transit. Good products declare 20-22 pourcent.

Crude protein: 12-16 pourcent. A sedentary adult rabbit needs 12-15 pourcent protein. Active or breeding rabbits can go up to 18 pourcent, but above that, there is a risk of protein overload.

Fat: 1-3 pourcent. Rabbits do not need much fat. A pellet with more than 5 pourcent fat is too rich for a sedentary adult.

First ingredient: grass or hay. A pellet whose first ingredient is grass meal, dehydrated grass, or timothy hay guarantees that the primary fibre source is plant-based and adequate.

Zero cereals, zero seeds, zero added sugar. Corn, wheat, oats, sorghum, sunflower seeds, sugar, honey: all of these are rich in simple sugars and starch that rabbits metabolise poorly. These ingredients ferment in the caecum, disrupt the bacterial flora, and promote dysbiosis, diarrhoea, and stasis.

The best rabbit pellets in 2026

Oxbow Essentials Adult Rabbit Food - A grade on PetFoodRate

First ingredient: timothy hay. Crude fibre: 22 pourcent. Protein: 14 pourcent. Fat: 2 pourcent. Zero cereals, zero seeds, zero colourants. This is the reference recommended by most exotic pet vets in the UK and North America. Widely available online and at independent pet stores.

Science Selective Adult Rabbit (Supreme Pet Foods) - A grade on PetFoodRate

Second top choice. First ingredient: timothy hay. Crude fibre: 25 pourcent (the highest in the market for a uniform pellet). Protein: 12 pourcent. No added sugars. Made in the UK, distributed across Europe and North America. Denser texture than Oxbow, preferred by rabbits that chew slowly.

Burgess Excel Adult Rabbit - B grade on PetFoodRate

Correct but slightly below the two above on composition. Crude fibre: 20 pourcent. Protein: 13 pourcent. No cereals but contains beet pulp (fermentable fibre) in moderate quantity.

Vitakraft Crispy Pellets, Versele-Laga Crispy Muesli, Colourful Seed and Grain Mixes - D and E grades on PetFoodRate

These products contain cereals (corn, wheat, oats) in first or second position, sunflower seeds, colourants, and added sugar. The colourful and varied appearance is designed to appeal to the human owner, not to nourish the rabbit. These products are actively harmful to a rabbit's digestive and dental health.

See the full rabbit pellet ranking for all scores.

Fresh vegetables: 10 pourcent of the diet, every day

Which vegetables are suitable

Fresh vegetables represent 10 pourcent of the adult rabbit's daily diet. They provide water (essential hydration), fresh vitamins, and variety. The rule: leafy green vegetables first, root vegetables in very limited quantities (high sugar), fruit only in small occasional amounts.

Vegetables recommended daily:

Curly kale leaves - rich in fibre, calcium, vitamins K and C
Romaine lettuce, leaf lettuce - hydrating and palatable
Fresh herbs: basil, parsley (in moderation), coriander, dill, mint (sparingly)
Radish tops, beetroot leaves (not the beetroot itself)
Green pepper (without seeds)

Vegetables to give with moderation (1-2 times per week maximum):

Carrot and carrot tops - loved by rabbits but high in natural sugars
Broccoli and cauliflower - in small quantities (can cause gas in excess)
Courgette (zucchini) and cucumber - hydrating but very low in nutrients

What to absolutely avoid:

Iceberg lettuce: nutritionally empty, causes diarrhoea (too much water)
Onion, garlic, leek: toxic to rabbits (sulfur compounds)
Rhubarb: toxic oxalates
Raw potato, raw beans: starch and toxins that are incompatible with rabbit physiology
Avocado: toxic persin
Chocolate, dairy products, bread, cereals: absolutely forbidden

The most common mistakes

Mistake 1: feeding primarily on pellets

This is the number one mistake. A rabbit that eats primarily pellets (even good ones) and little hay will develop dental and digestive problems. Pellets are too dense and do not stimulate gut transit adequately. The direct consequence is GI stasis and dental elongation.

Mistake 2: giving seed mixes as a main food

"Seed and freeze-dried vegetable mixes" sold in pet stores are formulated to look natural and appealing. In reality they contain oats, puffed corn, sunflower seeds, dried carrot rounds, and sugar. The rabbit selects and eats what it prefers (the calorie-dense, sweet seeds), leaves the rest, and develops an unbalanced diet.

Mistake 3: too much fruit

Fruits are high in simple sugars. A rabbit eats fruit in the wild - but in very limited quantities and only seasonally. A domestic rabbit that receives apple, pear, or grapes every day will develop caecal dysbiosis, chronic diarrhoea, and potentially obesity.

Mistake 4: changing diet abruptly

The rabbit's caecum houses millions of bacteria specialised in fermenting specific substrates. An abrupt dietary change (new vegetables, new pellet brand) disrupts this flora. Any dietary transition must take place over at least 7-10 days, gradually introducing the new food alongside the existing diet.

Mistake 5: restricting water access

Rabbits need fresh water available at all times. A 3 kg rabbit may drink 150-250 ml per day - more if its diet is dry (few fresh vegetables). Water bottles (sippers) are accepted by most rabbits but some prefer a bowl. Both formats are valid if the water is changed daily.

Nutritional warning signs

Reduced dropping production or smaller droppings: early sign of slowed transit. Check hay consumption immediately.

Soft droppings (caecotropes) left uneaten in the enclosure: overfeeding on calories or protein. Reduce pellets and increase hay.

Large head shape, difficulty chewing, excessive drooling: likely dental problems from insufficient hay. Urgent vet consultation.

Obesity (cannot feel ribs): excess pellets, too-frequent fruit. Reduce pellets, increase hay, remove sweet treats.

Diarrhoea (not caecotropes but actual liquid diarrhoea): too-rapid dietary change, too much fruit or vegetables, infection. Vet consultation if it persists beyond 24 hours.

Feeding rabbits by age and health status

Young rabbits (0 to 6 months)

Young rabbits have different needs from adults. Up to 3 months, they should stay with their mother and receive milk. Between 3 and 6 months, they can start pellets at a higher proportion (up to 30-35 g/kg/day) because they are actively growing. Alfalfa hay can partially replace timothy during this phase as their protein and calcium requirements are higher. Important: premature weaning and the too-rapid introduction of varied vegetables is a frequent cause of diarrhoea in young rabbits.

Pregnant and nursing does

Pregnant and nursing does have significantly increased energy and protein needs. Pellets can be given free-choice during this period (no restriction). Alfalfa hay as a supplement to timothy is recommended. Calcium-rich vegetables (kale, parsley) can be increased. Water consumption often doubles.

Senior rabbits (5 years and older)

Older rabbits may develop dental problems (particularly root elongation), arthritis (difficulty crouching to eat at a low litter tray), and reduced appetite. Practical adjustments: softer and shorter hay, raising the litter tray to avoid painful posture, slightly softer vegetables (briefly blanched if the animal struggles to chew tough leaves). Pellets for a very old rabbit with severe dental problems can be slightly softened with warm water if mastication is impaired.

How to read a rabbit pellet label

Reading a rabbit pellet label is a simple skill to develop. Here are the key elements:

The ingredients list: like dog and cat food, ingredients are listed in descending order by weight. The first ingredient must be a fibrous plant source (grass, timothy hay, meadow hay). If the first ingredient is "cereals", "corn", or "wheat", the formulation is poor.

Guaranteed analysis: look for these values on the back panel:

Crude fibre: minimum 18 pourcent, ideally 20-25 pourcent
Crude protein: 12-16 pourcent
Crude fat: 1-3 pourcent
Crude ash (minerals): 6-8 pourcent maximum

Calcium: a value often omitted but critical. Adult rabbits need 0.6-1.0 pourcent calcium (dry matter basis). Excess calcium (as in high-alfalfa pellets) causes urinary stones. The recommended pellets (Oxbow, Science Selective) stay within this range.

What should NOT appear in the list:

Sugar, dextrose, molasses, glucose syrup - sweet additives that disrupt the caecal flora
Artificial colourants (E102, E110, etc.) - no nutritional value, added to appeal to the human buyer
Artificial preservatives (BHA, BHT) - avoidable with natural alternatives (vitamin E, rosemary extract)
Whole seeds (sunflower, flax, pumpkin) - too rich in fat and sugars for a domestic adult rabbit

Uniform pellet vs muesli mix: a uniform pellet (a single identical kibble shape) is preferable to a colourful mixed product. With a uniform pellet, the rabbit cannot sort ingredients and must ingest a balanced ration. With colourful mixes, it selects the most palatable elements (sweet seeds, dried fruit pieces) and ignores the less appealing but more fibrous components.

Hay storage: getting it right

Hay quality depends heavily on storage. Even a good bag of timothy hay can become harmful if stored improperly.

What to do:

Store in a cool, dry, ventilated place - a cotton pillowcase or paper bag works better than a sealed plastic container
Use within 6-8 months of purchase date for optimal nutritional value
Buy smaller quantities more frequently if your rabbit is a single animal (a 500g bag every 2 weeks is better than a 5kg bag that sits open for 3 months)

What to avoid:

Sealed airtight containers: moisture accumulates and promotes mould
Direct sunlight: degrades vitamin content and dries hay to the point of becoming unpalatable
Storing near strong odours (cleaning products, cat litter): rabbits are sensitive to smell and will refuse tainted hay

Signs that hay has gone bad: grey or brown colour (should be golden-green), musty or dusty smell, excessive powdering when handled, visible mould. When in doubt, discard and replace.

Summary: the ideal adult rabbit diet

Food	Proportion	Notes
Timothy hay (or orchard grass)	80 pourcent, unlimited	Absolute foundation, always available
Grain-free pellets	10 pourcent (20-25g/kg/day)	Not free-choice
Leafy green vegetables	10 pourcent	Varied, fresh, daily
Fruit	Trace (1-2 times/week, small portion)	Treat, not daily food
Fresh water	Unlimited	Changed daily

To compare specific products, use our comparison tool or browse the full product pages.

Sources

AEMV (Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians) - Rabbit Nutrition Guidelines - 2023
Oglesbee BL - Blackwell's Five-Minute Veterinary Consult: Small Mammal - Wiley-Blackwell, 2011
Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund - Diet and Behaviour Guidance - RWAF, 2024
House Rabbit Society - Rabbit Diet - HRS, 2023
Varga M - Textbook of Rabbit Medicine - Butterworth-Heinemann, 2nd ed., 2014
de Blas C, Wiseman J - Nutrition of the Rabbit - CABI Publishing, 2010

Sophie Lefevre, Species Nutrition Specialist, PetFoodRate